Georgian Bay

The Thirty Thousand Islands of Georgian Bay stretch over 100 miles from Port Severn to Killarney in the north (the start of the North Channel of Lake Huron).  There are probably many more islands than the 30,000 and most of them seem to have a cottage or two on them. This area is easily reached by roads so there are lots of cottages (50,000?). The "small craft" route through the maze of islands can get pretty hairy at times; sharp sudden turns with rocks just feet from the channel. We heard several distress calls to the Canadian Coast Guard from boaters with sinking boats after running into rocks!

We left the marina at Midland early on July 21st and headed north to our first introduction to the narrow route past Beausoliel Island to a small cove called Frying Pan Bay.This is a popular anchorage with several State Park docks that were already full of boats so we anchored.

Nice little spot with a YMCA camp around the corner - got swarmed by a bunch of kids in canoes having a great time.

 

Werner and Kathie showed up later (they had just gotten through the last lock on the Trent) and we went for a hike around a small inland lake.

Nice spot and only got lost once!

We stayed there two nights enjoying the peaceful cove and then headed off toward Parry Sound, home of Bobby Orr, the hockey legend. But first we passed the "world famous" Henry's Fish House on Frying Pan Island. Apparently folks stop here for the 'fantastic' whitefish and pickeral dinners, They even have fly-in tours from Parry Sound on seaplanes to enjoy Henry's. All the loopers we talked to said it was mediocre at best so we took a pass!

After Henry's we took the South Channel up to Parry Sound, past some new construction of another "cottage" on their own island.

Under bridges and one swing bridge before Parry Sound that only opened on the hour - made it there with only seconds to spare!

Spent the night at Parry Sound, Went to the Bobby Orr museum, liquor store (again!) and had dinner out on the town. Whoopee! Off early the next morning through the "hole-in-the-wall", a very narrow channel.

Past Killbear Point and a cleverly disguised cell phone tower - it had us wondering how come there was only one tall tree.

And even more narrow channels - this is the entrance to Canoe Channel which the guide book says is not suitable for vessels more than 40' long - thank heavens we're only 36'!

Out into the channel surrounded by rocks,

And then back into the small vessel channel and the historic lighthouse at Point Au Baril with a small museum. Of course there was no where to anchor and the only dock was about 15' long.

Left the channel to get diesel in Bayfield. Got several hundred liters and then saw the price: $1.69 a liter! Just about had a heart attack! Managed to knock him down to $1.40; still way too much but I can live with it.

Anchored in a cove near there and practiced throwing lures in the water.

Off early the next morning (Werner and Kathie following us) and had a mix of everything - open water around Hangdog Bank, lost the GPS in the rain part of the time (do you remember how to navigate?), through squiggly narrow channels to finally arrive at an anchorage in the Bustard Islands. Beautiful spot and great for exploring in the dinghy. Bustard Islands are off the mouth of the French River.

We even saw a very large water snake curled up basking in the sun (me without the camera of course). There are Massassauga rattlesnakes here so you do tend to tread lightly.

Off early the next morning (sunrise) across 20 miles of open water and then into Beaverstone Bay and Collins inlet. 

Past some 'quaint' cottages on the rocks,

some on a hilltop,

some spifffy, and

some where, unfortunately, an architect got involved.

And one stretch of rocky islands that had three lighthouses!

Collins Inlet has a very narrow entrance and is almost 17 miles long - some of the most protected and pristine water we have seen so far.

And beautiful stone cliffs on either side.

Stopped just short of the end of the inlet to anchor for the night with several other boats ("Sea Venture" and "Just In Time"). Went for a dinghy ride and hikes on the rocks around the anchorage.

Off the next morning after a breakfast of blueberry pancakes (we had picked the blueberries yesterday) and across flat calm waters through Killarney and into the beginning of the North Channel. We had enjoyed some really great anchorages, beautiful calm weather and wonderful scenery. It's no wonder Georgian Bay is such a popular cruising area and "cottage country".  

Trent-Severn Waterway

The Trent-Severn Waterway is 241 miles long and has 44 locks or lifts, starting in Trenton on Lake Ontario and ending at Port Severn on Lake Huron. The waterway is managed by Parks Canada and goes through many towns and villages that cater to boaters.

We are required to buy a "locking" permit to go through the locks and a "mooring" permit if we want to tie up for the night at the lock walls which are above and below the actual lift. Compared to the Erie Canal the fee was much more expensive (over $500), but the Canadian locks are well maintained and staffed by very friendly and helpful young people, primarily college students. All locks have clean restrooms and very nice picnic areas. They open and close the locks by hand - pushing levers around and around in a small circle that open the lock doors.

The locks offer a great place to tie up for the night. The first day we made it to Lock #6, Frankford Lock, and went for a short bike ride into town, dusty and hot. Only hazard at the locks is the incredible amount of goose poop everywhere!

Off the next morning to Campbellford; home of the Toonie! But first we go through our first "flight" lock - basically two locks in one. The door in front is over 50' high; you go into the lock, go up one 'flight', the blue door above opens and you go into the next chamber and up again. I sure hope the door holds!

The Toonie ($2 coin) was designed by a resident of Campbellford, Brent Townsend, in 1996 and the town honored that creation by erecting a 20 foot tall replica of the coin in the park where we tied up.

It has the polar bear on one side and Queen Elizabeth II on the other.

Saturday night's feature local music at the bandstand in the park; we got "Stompin' John" - not exactly the real thing.

Stayed there two nights, lots of sightseeing (Chocolate Factory, Captain George's for fish and chips. Canadian Tire for a fishing rod, groceries and beer store). Then off to the town of Hastings. Went through Locks 13-18 and managed to make 20 miles that day!

Next stop, the town of Peterborough where we will meet our friends Otto and Ruth from Nova Scotia; they will travel with us for the next week or so. On the way there we got a good picture of these "mute" swans. They are not native to Canada but were brought over from Europe to adorn the parks and estates in the late 1800's. Surprise, surprise - they got loose and are now scattered over a small area around Lake Ontario.

But first a stop at Ranney Falls and the suspension bridge over the gorge. It really bounced a lot when we walked on it!

We tied up at the lock before Peterborough for the night and got on our bikes for a tour of the town and marina, only a 15 minute ride. Biked through Little Lake Cemetery that we had heard about on CBC (beautifully maintained acreage on the waterfront).

And then saw the welcoming fountain in the middle of the bay - 250' high.

Moved to the municipal marina the next day, July 11th, and Otto and Ruth showed up that afternoon. Spent Sunday doing touristy things (Canadian Canoe Museum, Ribfest and concert in the park) and getting provisions for the next run. 

We drove to see the Peterborough Hydraulic Lift Lock - the largest in the world! It was completed in 1904 and required 26,000 cubic yards of cement. A massive undertaking at that time. Good news is they have only lost two boats over the edge (back in the 60's and 70's) - they now have better and new gates!

Boats start filing into the pan on the bottom - one after another! Each pan holds 1,040 cubic meters of water or 1,700 tons!

And when the lock is full they add an extra foot of water in the upper pan (equivalent to 144 tons) which causes the upper pan to force the lower pan up. Each pan rises on a huge ram (7.5' in diameter). The traffic exits and then a new boat enters for the ride down.

The next day it was our turn. With our extra deck hands it was surprisingly easy. And we had a nice view from top.

Piece of cake.

The waterway here is just beautiful with narrow channels, larger lakes and lots of summer cottages. Some islands even have a little church!

We spent the night near Lakefield at the lock, nice little town just a short dinghy ride away; beer store (again) and nice deli. Hot and humid so we decided to take a float trip down the river alongside the canal. Strapped on our life jackets and had a nice cooling ride in the rapids, not as scary as it looked!

Left the next morning for Bobcaygeon. Beautiful country.

But first we had lots of fun in the locks!

Here's Valerie and Bev (on Sea Venture) doing the boat hook toss!

Sometimes a bit of confusion.

 And some relaxing moments!

Our traveling companions, Al and Kay on "Knot Home" had saved us a spot on the upper wall at Bobcaygeon which was very nice of them; lots of boats and rented houseboats. Otto and Ruth treated us to dinner after a tour of the town and then off again the next day to the Kirkfield Lock, another hydraulic lift lock. But first some very narrow waterways.

Only room for one boat here - all rocks on the edges. This is a man-made cut through the Canadian Shield.

At the Kirkfield Lock, Al and Kay on Knot Home went in first and then I had a bit of a problem with the wind but managed not to hit anyone - thanks to Al for fending us off!

Nice ride down, about 45', and then finally decided to call it quits at a very secluded lock in a rural setting. Hot day so Otto and Ruth decided to go swimming in the lock! Not sure if that is legal or not but who cares?

Nice walks in the morning as we waited for the lock to open at 9:00.

We had a great crossing of Lake Simcoe (which can get nasty), so nice we didn't even take a picture! And one of our biggest lock drops so far - 47 feet.

Across Lake Simcoe, through Orillia, and had a nice anchorage at McLean Bay - local fellow had his own seaplane. Gotta love that.

Then off the next morning in rain headed for the Big Chute - a railway lift over the hill. Luckily Ron and Bev on "Sea Venture" where already there and got these great photos of us going on the rail lift - our photos were mainly just rain drops!

It was all over so fast we really couldn't appreciate the whole thing. One boat in front of us, get behind them in the center, stop, the lock guys stabilized us with the slings, then off we go. 20 minutes later it was all over, damn!

A short ride took us to the final lock, #45, at Port Severn. We tied up above the lock as Otto and Ruth tried multiple ways to get back to their car in Peterborough; planes/trains/automobiles you name it. They had a float plane lined up but that cancelled because of the weather; no rental car agencies had one-way rentals, All the folks at the locks and stores couldn't find anyone to drive them - nothing. They eventually hired a taxi to take them to Orillia, rented a car there, drove to Peterborough (2 hour drive) back to Orillia to drop off the car and then headed for Montreal the next day. It was great having them on board, and we sure appreciated the extra hands in the locks.

We got a good washdown that night with a heavy shower and went through the lock the next morning to a perfect day into the Georgian Bay area - our next cruising ground.